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Craig's twitter feed:
My vintage Beetle is running really well. The carb is performing consistently, and the electronic timing has been completely trouble-free. Now I'm just waiting out the winter and building up a supply of spare parts before I take it out on the road.
So in addition to the one in the car, I want to have a spare carburetor to take along, just in case. When I'm making a thousand-mile trip, I don't have to stop in the middle somewhere and have to rebuild a carb. I have a spare distributor, and fuel pump, and some other stuff, but I only have one carburetor at the moment that runs well.
I have a 34PICT-4 carburetor, which I had re-bushed but when I put it on the car last it didn't idle right. I suspect there's something crusty down inside somewhere. I bought a can of carburetor dip, so I'm goingo dip the chassis to see if I can dissolve whatever's in there and get the passages cleaned out. It's an original German one, which I'm told are very good quality and shouldn't have manufacturing defects.
First the carb all together.
The major pieces, dis-assembled.
All the bits that came off.
The jets and stuff in a bowl ready to be soaked in carb cleaner.
The main hull again.
I'll grab one of the other carbs first and dip them, just in case the dipping compound attacks the material of the carburetor body.
The juxtaposition of these two (of our) cars in a resteraunt parking
lot amused me greatly, so I snapped a photo. When my wife and I are
out of the house in different places, we're usually each in a car.
When we go somewhere together, we usually ride in the same car (no
surprises here). So it's very unusual for us to be driving two of our
cars and have them parked next to each other somewhere other than the
house. This was us having dinner at the local mexican resteraunt; and
she had a meeting to go to afterwards.
So I took a (business) trip in January flying my club's Cessna 182...and I got stranded nad had to play the I-hope-the-mechanic-can-fix-it waiting game. The club reimbursed me for the repairs, but it ended up being a long weekend nonetheless.
On the flight up, it amused me greatly that my heading for the flight
was 315 degrees; I had echoes of The Hunt For Red October goin
through my head.
Flightstar at Willard Aiport
treated me very very well--they had a red carpet on the ground when I
landed:
The weather got snowy while I was there, so I had them put my plane
inside (for an extra charge). Here it is, in good company. The plane
I flew is the closer one.
I had been there during the week riding the bus. When I went to take
off Saturday morning, I had a bad magneto check. So I ended up
staying over. Since it was basically going to be a three-day weekend
(MLK day), I rented a car to make it easier to get around. I once
again ended up not getting the car that I thought I wanted. I ended
up driving a Chevy Cruze. A nice little car, not as quiet as the
Malibou. Here's the dashboard at startup for the lights test:
And once it's running:
The center console had an aux jack for a radio and a USB jack (for
power--don't know if that would connect to the radio too):
The mag got replaced, then a weather delay, but Wednesday morning I
was finally on my way. It seems like most of the time when I'm
flying, I end up with a head wind, so I fly around 6 or 7 thousand fee
to maximize forward airpseed to fight the wind. On this trip I had
something like a 20 knot TAILwind, so I flew higher to take advantage
of it. I don't think I've ever cruised at 9000 feet before.
Here I am, with Louisville passing off to the left. Notice the
manifold pressure gauge on the right is only indicating 21 1/2 inches
of pressure (it's about 30 on the ground) because the air's getting
thin. That's with the throttle
wide open. At lower altitudes, you try to cruise at the top of the
green arc at 23 inches.
6 more hours of cross-country time, and 6 more hours of high-performance time. Despite the annoyances, a nice trip. Many playoffs watched.
I've been really busy at work for the last part of 2011, but I have
been moving forward on getting the defrost installed:
The vent is taped to the air circulation box at the right. The three
defrost hoses are installed here. The hose to the center defrost vent
is makred with magenta dots. The yellow dots are the hose to the main
right side vent (that I just installed). The green dots show the
white hose that go to the side defrost vent.
Looking down into the A pillar:
with all the hoses hooked up, you really can't see the splitter.
New year's resolutions? I have a few. I may articulate them here at some point. I plan to organize my stuff in the house much better. Happy New Year, everyone!
I took a road trip this weekend (including Monday) bewteen two weeks of training. I drove 526 miles up and 538 miles back today. It seems like a long way to drive just to sit on a couch.
Getting on I-39 where it begins at Bloomington. Driving dead
north--NOW we're getting somewhere!
There are a couple of big wind farms along I-39 in northern Illinois.
Here's a side shot. The camper is a random occurence; the "bend
backwards" stance amuses me. I presume it's because of the way the
camera raster-scans the image.
For quite a while here, it looks for all the world like the road is
goin to go between those two wind turbines, like the Gates of
Argonath from the Lord of the Rings.
But the road turns eventually.
Some closer shots of turbines:
This is either a Unicycle built by B.S. Johnson of the Discworld
novels, or else a new power line pillar with wheels for running the
new wires.
I love the mural on the back of this truck.
In Wisconsin, I-90, 94, and 39 run together for a while. I-39
continues to the north, but I branch off to the west with I-94 to head
towards Minneapolis/St. Paul.
It's been cold farther north. There's still snow on the ground.
And finally, at the end of the drive up, here's the river as I cross
into Minnesota. Yay!
The primary reason for going on this trip was to surprise my brother
by showing up to his 30th birthday party. Here's photographic
evidence. I'm on the left, my brother Dave is on the right. Would
you trust your computer to these guys?
The other reason I went was I visited Chippewa falls Monday (today).
One of my stops there was the
Chippewa Falls Museum of Science and Technology, which contains an
extensive exhibit of vintage Cray hardware.
I'm sitting on serial number 1 of the
Cray 1 Supercomputer. The
computer parts are in the tall cylindrical section behind and above
me. The wider part, that I'm sitting on, houses the power supplies.
It was awesome seeing this museum. The early Cray systems defined the
very idea of a Supercomputer, and were marvels of engineering and
computing design.
(At the left of the picture is a display with three floppy disks
illustrating how storage has gotten bigger over time.)
The end-of-trip obligatory speedometer shot.
I bought this car just about exactly 2 1/2 years ago, and I've already
put almost 55,000 miles on it. In a bit over 5,000 miles from now, it
will have passed even the extended warranty that I bought for it.
I have a post about a car, that's not mine and not even a Volkswagen! I rented it on a recent trip to the San Antonio area and I have to say I was intruiged and impressed. The car was a Chevy Malibou, which is not certainly not a car that I would gravitate to, but I picked it with my usual Zen method of car picking. It wasnt' even the model that I'd picked when I did the paperwork, but that's what I ended up with.
The first thing, which was surprising and neat, is that it was so quiet. I think it's close to the quietest driving car that I've ever ridden in. It was just whisper-quiet. I liked the way it drove...it was nice and smooth.
But that's not what I wanted to write about. The car's intstrument
panel was...different than any I've driven before. The numbers come
from lights inside the dash, and aren't illuminated when the car is
off; then the dials are just blank:
When you turn on the key, the dial nuumbers slowly fade in, like this:
where you can see the numbers are still dim. And here the self-test
is done; the numbers are fully bright.
Oh, and it has a USB jack on the radio for power:
And I have to say--I've always liked the status displays that tell you
that you've just engaged the cruise control:
Aaaaaaaand...if that wasn't neat enough, the dash status display will
give you the pressures in the tires. Awesome!
The Beetle's running great. I haven't assembled a second carburetor yet, but other than that my set up spare parts is getting close to done. Once that's done, I'll start working on taking it out on longer trips.
The heat's working great. I haven't measured it, but I suspect that driving down the highway I can get a 30 degree F differential above the outside temperature. To slightly imprive that, one of the things I need to do is get the rest of the air handling stuff finished in the front end in the luggage compartment. I worked on the gas tank a bunch last summer, and I really never got the rest of the trunk stuff re-assembled.
While I get a lot of heat out of the engine, the worst thing you can
have in a forced-air system is an open exit that doesn't go anywhere
useful. Most of the air tends to leak out there and mostly not go
where it's supposed to. Right now, on each front side of the car, two
of the defrost hoses are hooked up, but not all three:
What's missing are the vent assemblies that go from the vent box in
the middle top of the trunk area to the dashboard vents. Fortunately,
I was able to find the vents in their box that's been sitting around
the garage for a year and a half.
There's a box at the top of the luggage compartment that takes outside
vent and pipes it into the dash vents. It has valves to turn that air
circulation off, or a fan to blow the air if you're sitting still.
The fat tubes (blue dots) on the sides of the vents connect to the air
box. The end slots connecto the dash board and put air out into the
passenger compartment (green dots). The reason to connect these up
for winter is that the remaining defrost hoses also connect to the
vents (red dots).
There's going to be salt on the roads soon, so I don't know that I'll really get to driving it much more than I already have until spring rolls around again. However, this coming year, I should be able to start seriously using it and taking driving load off of my new Beetle. There aren't any significant maintenance items that are upcoming. The only one that I really should do soon is to lubricate the CV joints on the drive shafts, and that's something that can be done one at a time, fairly non-invasively. It's just messy.
[It's always mystified me that people talk about having lists of blog posts that you have to write. I've always thought that if you have a post to write, you write it. Well, now I'm having to take a dose of my own medicine; this is a blog post I've been trying to put together for six months.]
My philosophy of phone buying up to this year had always been to buy a relatively old phone that was just about to be discontinued. It's cheap, all the bugs have bene worked out. I had a Palm Treo and then a Palm Centro under that philosophy. However, I'd always wanted to have a phone that had an ssh client, so early this year (February, I think) I went shopping. My critea were I wanted a phone that had an ssh client, and one that could plug into usb. My friend Wayne was confused, and said that they were all like that (the usb part).
Well, I ended up getting my first nice new phone ever, a Droid X. As
I was told, the charging power suppy for it looked like this:
It plugs into the wall, and has a USB port, which supplies power to
the phone, or it can charge with a computer USB port. So I got that.
Slightly later in the spring,
I got an iPad. The iPad came with a USB-output charger too:
These two things together rang a bell. Douglas Adams wrote an article about this once. He talked about eliminating "dongly things"; discrete separate power supplies for gadgets (he was rather a gadget freak). He suggested that there should be a more common standard that just everything could plug into. I thought, with these two gadgets, that the power standard that Adams talked about has arrived, and it's USB!
Well...not only did someone already think of that, but they posted that fact to the relevant page that has his article. Among other things, apparenlty the European Union decided having different chargers for everything was silly, and set up an initiative cell phone companies to damn well compromise on USB as a power standard (I'm paraphrasing here) for mobile phones. So much so that new European-style power outlets are to have USB outputs built into them separate from the power plug. Here's Douglas Adam's article about "dongly things", complete with references to USB as a power standard.
So that's the article that I wanted to write in March, but I hadn't taken the time to take the photos and write the text. I got all excited at the time, though, about the whole USB-as-charging standard thing. I mentioned this to my pal Alex, that charging iPad and phone (he has a nice Droid phone too) via USB was great 'cause you dont' have to bring as many chargers and stuff. He said "Yeah, but the iPad charger puts out more current". I told him that was preposterous, USB has a power limit and surely the wall chargers respected that. He shrugged, but assured me that was the case.
As in all things, and I should have known this, it turns out that Alex was right. I'm not going to go into the details, but Wikipedia's article on USB has a good power section. The important bit is that devices are allowed to draw 500 mA under USB 2.0 and 900 mA under USB 3.0 (all at a nominal 5V). There's also a "Battery Charging Specification" under which USB devices can draw 1.5A, and up to 1.8A from a "dedicated charger" (presumably like a wall charger). A later section also lists devices that don't follow any of the specifications, which concludes with "The iPad and MiFi 2200 are two devices that draw even more power (10 watts or 2.1 Amps) than the Battery Charging Specification allows via USB ports."
So apparently, there are fairly normal USB chargers, and "high
power" USB chargers. The specifications on my charging devices bears
this out. Here's the charger that came with my phone:
It can source 850mA. This charges the phone in a few hours. But the
iPad charger widget says:
Ye hah!
Those are dedicated charging devices that come with their parent
device. However, that means that stand-alone USB chargers have several
variations, including normal ones and "high power" ones. It turns out
that's the case. Since then, I bought this charger that I like to
take along on trips. It draws power from the wall OR from a lighter
socket in a car, and its output is a (high-power) USB socket:
The most recent chapter of this story happened recently, although I'm
sure it's not the last one. I flew down to San Antonio, Texas, a few
weeks ago and rented a car and drove to Kerrville. The car that I rented,
through my usual Zen method of car selection, was a Chevy Malibou.
For the very first time in my experience, this car had a USB power
charging jack in the dash board:
I've been working on my vintage Beetle a lot lately. I've test-driven it up to 30 miles. The electronic ignition seems to be doin fine.
Now that I'm taking it on longer and longer trips, I'm working through the long-term list of stuff that needs to be updated or fixed. Earlier this week, that was changing out the transmission fluid. I changed out the trans fluid early on when owning the car. I put in "90-weight gear oil". Well, it turns out that there is debate about the best specification of oil to use. I'm not going to get into that debate here, but I pulled out the GL-5 gear oil that I'd put in a few years ago and put in fresh GL-4. I don't know if that's really better, but it sure runs noticably quieter.
Here's Thrice sniffing at the trans fluid plugs and the hex tool used
to remove/install them:
The garage is kind of chilly, so I warmed the container of trans fluid
in hot water in the sink before attempting to put it in the car.
...and, my sophisticated gravity-actuated insertion system.
I want to have a spare carburetor to take with me on long trips. I'm
not to the point of trying to put together a second working carb, but
I'm trying to understand which parts are important to check. Here I'm
checking the amount of time it takes for the thermal-electric choke to
open when voltage is applied.
An auspicious day. Drove to Knoxville to get oil in New Beetle changed and 2 new tires. The desk dude fixed the roll pin in my switchblade key so it now folds smoothly (it's been bad since I got the car).
I had a fairly productive day at work; got some stuff moving.
This afternoon evening drove most of the way to office-away-from-home. Sirius Satellite radio had a town-hall Q&A with band (surviving members of) Nirvana, hosted and MCed by John Stewart. It's the 20th anniversary of the release of their album Nevermind. There was apparently a contest and the winners got to go to Sirius/XM studios in New York and be there to ask their questions.
It was a 2-hour session, and it was interesting hear them talk about their experiences. They played a few songs too. One was they played the demo tape the'd made recorded on a boom box of "Smells Like Teen Spirit". It's interesting to hear it in that unproduced format.
I was planning to grab a hotel room for the night anyway, but I thought it was auspicious that the session was ending as I was approaching the exit, and the full version of "Smells Like Teen Spirit" started to play, and I got to crank it up and listen as I drove to the hotel and parked. I don't know that I'm a huge fan of the band, but I certainly have a lot of nostalgia for that song. (it came out my Freshman year of college).
And I got room 137 in the hotel, which is a nice bit of physics nerd numerology.
Instead of flying, I stayed home yesterday, because I've been busy a lot lately and it was nice to have a day to work on the car.
Before driving, I did a bunch of stuff in the garage and adjustments to the engine. I have a relatively cleared work bench. I've collected together all the parts that I want to have in my spare set for long-distance driving, and all the VW tools are packed back in the tool box. I have a spare distributor which I was going to pre-time. My plan was I'd leave the distributor cap with the spark plug wires hooked up, and change out the rest of the distributor. However, it turns out that the notches in the distributor bodies are on different sides, so to do that I'd have to unplug all the spark plug wires, which is a pain, so I didn't bother. If I need to swap in the distributor, I'll have to statically time it, which will be fine.
I checked the valve clearances. Given my past problems with valves drifting, I was rather worried when cylinder #1 had much higher clearance than spec; it was like .014 inches rather than .006. The clearance getting larger is the natural way the engine wears, and is not indicative of a problem (clearance getting smaller is a big danger sign), so it's not catastrophic, bit a bit worrying since I just set them 600 miles ago when I assembled the engine. HOWEVER, cylinder #2 was similarly out of spec in the benign direction. Going to measure #3 (now on the opposite side of the engine), I've never hoped so much that a measurment would be out of spec. But cylinders #3 and #4 were similarly out, so I can only conclude that this is a symptom of the brand new pushrods settling in. I'll have to check it again in a thousand miles and hopefully it will remain stable.
I also wanted to run the engine for a while to get it to operating temp. I made sure the carb was adjusted properly. While I had the engine hot, I decided to spend some time and do an oil pressure test. When I re-built the top half of the engine, I replaced the oil pump because the old one was worn and had been put together by an idiot. I bought an entirely new pump, blueprinted the gears and body, sanded and polished the cover plate, and then installed it.
When I got the car, the oil light flickered at idle when the engine
was hot. This is a sign that something in the oil system is worn;
it's usually a combination of the main engine bearings wearing out
and/or the oil pump. I did an oil pressure test; it was definitely
out of spec. The test is:
30-weight oil, oil at 70 degrees C, 2500 rpm
new engine, oil pressure should be 42 psi; wear limit is 28 psi
Before the engine rebuild:
30-weight oil at 62 deg C, 2500 rpm, pressure was 18 psi
Since the rebuild, the oil light has never flickered at all, so I knew
I had improved things drastically, but I didn't know how much.
My test yesterday:
30-weight oil at 67 deg C, 2500 rpm, pressure was 42 psi
So it's well above wear limits, which is great, but it's nearly up to
new spec. That's awesome! That long Monday Night Football game I
spent sanding the (cast iron) cover plate until it was smooth was
worth it!
I also drove the car yesterday to run errands. This was the first drive out of the driveway with the electronic ignition, which seems to be working stably. Yay!
I've been working for a couple of weeks on getting electronic ignition set up in my vintage Beetle. I bought one setup, which turned out to be badly made and really wasn't going to work. That's another story. The story for now is that Monday I bought a Pertronix electronic ignition module from vwparts.net on Monday, it arrived yesterday mid-afternoon, and about sundown the engine was running successfully.
Here's what the inside of a classic VW distributor
from the factory, with old-style "points" installed:
The shaft in the center of the picture rotates when the engine
rotates. The shaft isn't round; as the shaft rotates,
the lobes of the shaft push against the rubbing block (red arrow),
moving the points arm (marked with blue dots) and opening
(disconnecting) the contacts (green arrow). Then the lobe passes and
the arm closes the contacts again. When the contacts are closed the
black wire is electrically conneced to the distributor body; when
they're open it isn't.
The reason for doing this is complicated, but the important thing is that something inside the distributor closes a switch and opens a switch in response to the rotating of the engine. This points setup is a simple way of accomplishing that goal. The problems with it are that there are several points of mechanical wear. The points degrade from the constant sparking and need to be replaced. The timing of the engine drifts as that wear happens. Eventually, the bearings of the distributor shaft wear out because of the constant pushing from the rubbing block.
The inside of the distributor in the car now looks like this:
The black ring marked with red dots fits down over the shaft and locks
onto it, so that it always rotates with the shaft. It has 4 magnets
in its rim. The black box marked with green dots contains a magnetic
sensor and the other electronics. As the black ring rotates, it
senses the small magnets going by, and in response, it electronically
connects and disconnects the black wire to the distributor body,
just like the points did.
The advantages of this approach are:
One additional consideration; the points worked by using a mechanical
switch to connect the black wire to the distributor, and the movement
of the switch (the points) was provided by the rotation of the motor.
With the electronic system, the electricity has to be delivered to the
electronic module to power it. So instead of one wire coming out of
the distributor, there are now two.
The black one goes to negative
side of the coil just like in the points setup. The red wire goes to
the positive side of the coil (which is hot when the key is on) and
powers the electronic ignition module. I've put a fuse in the
positive line, just in case something inside the distributor touches,
it won't burn up the wiring.
(Wow--I haven't blogged for 9 days? Oy--I'll never do a post per day this month at this rate.)
I've had all kinds of various problems with the pedals in my vintage Beetle. The throttle cable has always been moderately too long. And of course there were the problems with the brake master cylinder, which I replaced a few years ago. Recently I've even put the proper spacers in so that the master cylinder is attached correctly.
I've been fighting with the throttle cable again. There's something wierd going on with the length of it. There's a cable length that's supposed to be for Beetles from 1972 to 1974, which includes mine. However, I got a couple of new cables of that length, but they're even longer than the almost-too-long cable that I took out. So I ordered an earlier model cable from Wolfsburg West (a shorter one) to see if that would help.
This is a timed photo taken with the recent "new" throttle cable
from the supposed correct year. When the photo snapped, I'm in the
car with the accelerator pedal all the way down.
The green arrow is pointing to a gap that shouldn't be there. When
the throttle is all the way open, the throttle arm to the right pushes
up against the body of the carburetor on the left. This is partly to
do wtih the too-long cable, and the slightly goofy way I had it
attached to the lever assembly at the front of the car.
The carburetor end of two of the cables. The 1972-74 is on the right,
the 1971 and earlier on the left. The green arrow shows about where
the cable clamp at the carburetor falls, so the one on the left that I
got should actually be about right.
With the new cable installed, the throttle opens all the way when you
push the accelerator pedal down.
It's hard to see (it was hard to photograph), but here's the end of
the cable at the carburetor. The red arrow points to the barrel
that's crimped onto the end of the cable. It's perfect--about half of
the barrel is ahead of the carb clamp and about half behind it.
I got the above done last night. Tonight I tied in the pedal end of
the cable with cable ties. The end of the cable just goes through a
hole in the lever that's ahead of the accelerator pedal (shown here).
It stays in just by a bend in the crimped end. It stays Ok when it's
under tension but I was afraid at some point motion of the pedal would
dis-lodge it and I'd lose throttle control. So I put cable ties on
the crimped end (indicated by the red arrow), so now it won't fall out.
I hope to get the electronic distributor in soon and start going out for test drives.
19:10 August 14 2011 (yesterday evening) my vintage Beetle started again. Although the morning was pleasant, the afternoon working on the car was long and annoying.
The core prolem at the moment is the throttle cable. The one that was orignally in the car seems like it's too long. I'd assumed that was because the cable had streteched over time. The length of the cable is important, because the throttle on the carburetor clamps to a tube that's crimped onto the cable, not to the cable itself. So the length has to be pretty close to right. At a couple of different times, I ordered what I thought was the correct cable to replace it.
(By the way--when I assembled the car, I put in an adjustable cable with an end that you put on with a set screw. These suck and don't work. Get the real kind.)
Well, there are a couple of different lengths of throttle cable, and the one that fits my car seems to not be the one that is upposed to fit it. I don't know what would make the difference. It's possible that the pedal cluster is different, and somehow my car ended up with one from a different year.
The throttle cable that's in the car (one of the new ones but really too long) works Ok, although it doesn't allow the car to go to completely full throttle. I've ordered a couple newer cables, of the shorter length. Hopefully by next weekend we'll be able to install one that fits right.
The other fun issue is that installing a throttle cable with the engine in the car is a really huge pain in the tookus. The throttle cable goes through a tube that's attached to the body; pushing the table through is actually very easy, because the cable is slightly stiff. There's a hole in the top center of the breastplate tin on the engine that the throttle cable goes through; that involves some work under the car. But that took me probably 5 minutes to do.
Once the cable is in the engine compartment, you have to feed it through the fan shroud. This involves a bunch of work at arm's length in a very narrow space that you can't see when you're working on it. You also need to have some sort of tube fed through the fan shroud to put the throttle cable through. I'd made one out of two pen barrels taped together, but it broke during the operation, causing a fair amount of cussing on my part.
I fabricated a tool to help with this, so it only took 10 minutes after that. I'll post photos at some point.
I got oil put in the engine. everything put all back together, and the fuel lines re-connected. I had to crank it for 20 or 30 seconds at first because the carburetor didn't have any fuel in it. But I got fuel in it and it started fairly uneventfully, and idled for 20 minutes or so, then I shut it off. (I discovered that my digital tach/dwell meter was dead. I thought it was a dead battery but it was acting funny even with a fresh battery so I threw it away). I set the timing in the engine, and I set the idle roughly with one of the older-school tach meters that I have.
Starting the weekend, I had planned to at least drive the car out of the driveway and around the neighborhood to scrape the rust off the brake drums. However, given the long annoying day I had working on the car, I decided to quit while I was ahead, and finished the day by driving the car into the garage. I will note that the accelerator, clutch, and brake all worked correctly, so everything in the pedal cluster seems to be fine. And I appear to have re-assembled and installed the clutch correctly.
There's a lot of adjusting and tweaking to be done. I'll slowly bring it up again to the point of taking long-distance trips. However, it's running, so I can start driving it around town at least. W00t!
I worked on the vintage Beetle a bunch this afternoon/evening. I didn't quite get the engine started tonight, but almost. Did today:
I had on problem--the distributor clamps that I bought have the tightening screw in an odd place. I thought I had as many clamps as distributors but since these new ones don't work, I'll have to use the old one for the moment. (This is an example of why it's important to not throw away parts from a vintage car until the replacement has been installed and tested.
I got the engine to the point that it was ready to spin. Ignition dis-abled, no carburetor, I installed the battery and spun the engine with the starter three times past where the oil pressure light went off. So the oil pump can pull oil in, the bearings have fresh oil, and the engine should be ready to start tomorrow. w00t!